Galway is the city of culinary mavericks, free spirits who rarely do things in a conventional way. But, even by the standards of Galway’s esoteric community creativity, the style which Joe and Margaret Bohan have patented at Dela means that here is a restaurant that is truly sui generis: nowhere else feels like Dela. Even before we get to the food and the way in which the team source, produce and procure their ingredients, there is the inescapable fact that Dela has a distinctly different vibe from any other restaurant in Ireland. They key to understanding this is to know that Dela means ‘to share’, so the modus operandi of Dela is different, and it feels like Haight Ashbury ‘68 mixed with a splash of Sydney and a soupçon of Oslo. Joe and Margaret’s organic farm ensures that the quality of ingredients used is unimpeachably fine, and the vegetable cookery often steals the show, especially in showstoppers such as winter vegetable Wellington with polytunnel leaves and sauce vierge. Best of all, there is a generosity and a humility to Dela that is enrapturing, so come on over and get a taste of true Galway soul food.