And Chips by Eunice Power

Here’s the thing about Eunice Power: task her with any endeavour – run a wedding catering company; run a great country house; master the art of porridge; show us how to make a great piadina; run a fish and chip shop – and then Mrs Power will go away, quietly work at her task and, when she returns, she will be running the best wedding catering company, running the best country house, making porridge for the Gods, making better piadinas than the Italians and – of course – her fish and chip shop will be ground-breaking.And that is exactly what … and chips is: a groundbreaking example of a fish and chip shop, in Eunice’s native Dungarvan. You can see the cooks working in the kitchen, underneath the big whiteboard that announces the food and, of course, the fish: on our visit by four hungry people, there was plaice, scampi and ling goujons. There are also chicken and beef options, you can get Syrian flatbread with felafel. The fish and chips come in an orange-red nailvarnish colour box, with the fish sitting on top, amidst wedges of lemon, good tartare sauce and some mushy peas. For the hungry traveller, this is manna, because the fish is so fresh, and the cooking is so precise: this is modern Irish fast-casual food – it is not fast food, by a million miles. In fact, it’s so good that you really wish you could have a craft beer or a glass of wine. Hopefully that will come in the future but, for now, … and chips proves the truth of the Dungarvan mantra: give Eunice Power a task, and she will bring you a result that is 100% better than you could have ever expected.