Peter Everett’s eponymous restaurant is the No 1 choice in Waterford city, and there isn’t a soul who will argue with that, a rare example of agreement in an ever-churning restaurant world. As Eamon Barrett points out, not only is Peter’s cooking excellent, it is “consistently excellent” and this consistency has won a devoted fan base. Everett likes to showcase local artisan specialities – Comeragh lamb; Derek Walsh’s beef; Kilmore Quay fish and shellfish; Meadowfield goat’s cheese – and then puts his elegant, subtle spin on the ingredient. He matches Wexford scallops with chicken jus and braised pork belly; he rolls and braises the Comeragh lamb before finishing it with parsley, garlic and lemon; he whips goat’s cheese and gives it an overcoat of wild garlic. It’s precise yet cosy food, in a cosy pair of rooms, and value for money is excellent.