The Celtic Cook-Off – the annual clash of the culinary titans from the Celtic regions of Scotland, Wales, Ireland, Brittany, Cornwall and Isle of Man – took place this year for the first time outside West Cork. Instead, the six challengers voyaged to the picturesque home of Loch Fyne Oysters in Argyll, Scotland, to cook-off against one another, against the clock and under the influence of copious quantities of Guinness and whisky.
Scotland was defending the title, having bested the Celtic opponents last year for the second time in the history of the contest – the formidable Roy Brett of Ondine restaurant in Edinburgh in the inaugural Cook-Off in 2011, and renowned chef who has cooked for royalty and heads of state, Joe Queen, in 2013. Only Ireland, in the shape of our own master chef Gary O’Hanlon, had succeeded in prizing the title from the hands of Scotland – until now.
This year’s cuisinier Armageddon – held in the superb Loch Fyne Oyster Bar & Grill, whose captain, chef Martin Furlong, is an Irishman and a fine chef too – was truly a clash of titans:
For Scotland, the legendary Tom Lewis (legendary for cooking and for mayhem) from the award-winning and fascinating Monachyle Mhor in the Trossachs.
Representing Isle of Man was Tony Quirk, creator of L’Expérience restaurant and some of the most baffling card tricks a tipsy audience ever attempted to fathom.
For Ireland, Frankie Mallon from An Port Mór in Westport, Mayo – a perfectionist of simplicity.
From Cornwall, the dashing curly-haired, surfing, rock-climbing, foraging, and all-round great guy, Mark Devonshire of Cornwall College.
Laying siege from Wales once again was Gareth Johns from the Wynnstay Hotel – a master chef in his own right who makes the Welsh language sound like birdsong.
And last but definitely not least, the supreme gentleman that is Eric Theze from La Bohème in Waterford representing the culinary bounty of his native Brittany.
Given that the competition was hosted at Loch Fyne Oysters, it was impossible to resist using their impeccable seafood. The company had only just received the Queen’s Award for Enterprise for their substantial contribution to the region, and also for their innovative integrated aquaculture system that ensures a cleaner environment and the highest quality farmed salmon, shellfish, oysters and mussels (I ate at least four bowls of the mussels during my stay, and plumper, tastier specimens I’ve rarely seen).
The competition was tight and judges had a tough call to make, coming down to a choice between the beauty and finesse of Mark Devonshire’s seafood medley in a divine sauce, and the simplicity, classicism and authenticity of Eric Theze’s quintessential preparation of halibut with a buckwheat porridge – sounds strange but it was like nothing you’ve ever tasted. Brittany took the prize in the end, and all were in agreement that the big-hearted Breton deserved the accolade.
The Celtic Cook-Off will return to West Cork for 2015, but I left Loch Fyne resolved to return for another taste of those mussels, oysters and smoked salmon. And to visit the rest of the places I’d heard so much about: the Isle of Arran for the local food and hospitality; Ondine in Edinburgh for a dining experience other chefs wouldn’t shut up about; Monachyle Mhor to see a hotel that’s also a small self-contained farm/town; and any good pub for the craic, warmth and generosity of the Scottish people.
For recipes from this year’s Celtic Cook-Off go here: www.lochfyne.com
For info on next year’s cook-off keep your eye on: www.westcorkfood.ie
Photography by Bill Baillie, http://rainycloudimages.com
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