How to summarise what the team in the Merrion Inn are all about? In ten words or less: beer good, service good, food nearly good. That's not to say that they're not trying - there's a genuine effort to deal with good Irish suppliers and beer-wise, it was lovely to see, prominently displayed, both as you walk in and behind the bar, chalkboards listing Irish beers of the month (in this case Howling Gale ale, Carraig Craft lager, Galway Hooker i.p.a.).
The meal had its moments - but they were only moments - like there was something interesting at work but with a definite gap between concept and execution. The highlight was a sauce that accompanied a starter of deep-fried Tipperary brie, billed as Cumberland style, with redcurrant and citrus. Though it could have done with being thicker, it was otherwise a delight, all tang and warm spice. The addition of some rosemary to a side of mashed turnip was pleasantly unexpected, while honourable mention goes to some sugar snap peas, which also came as a side.
The bulk of what we ate was less remarkable, however. A bruschetta style starter was ok in a French bread pizza kind of way, but mostly it served as a reminder of that which both chef and customer should know by now, which is that fresh tomatoes out of season in Ireland rarely taste of much. A main of sea bass fillets with a black pudding and spring onion boxty pancake seemed like a nice idea, but an excess of black pudding overwhelmed the fish and the pancake itself was gluey. A steak sandwich was fine but only that. As for dessert, chocolate fondant was decent but rhubarb crumble less so, the filling overly thickened, American-style, and not the pinkly juicy, early season rhubarb we were hoping for. I was delighted to see fresh mint tea on offer but disappointed at the distinct lack of mint leaves used.
Afterward, I was put in mind of a line I had read in an online review of the Merrion Inn (on Yelp or somesuch) and which described the food as "nothing to write home about in a restaurant, but very good for a pub." Sad to see that the expectations which the average Joe has for pub grub are still so decidedly low.
The Merrion Inn,
188 Merrion Road,
Ballsbridge,
Dublin 4.
Phone: + 353 (0)1 269-3816
Fax: + 353 (0)1 269-7669
Email: info@themerrioninn.com
A lot done, more to do. Aoife Cox admires the advances made in The Merrion Inn by Fearghus McCormack and his team.
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