The Inishfood Festival begins next Friday, 18 May. Email info@harrys.ie to book.
Tell us about your background?
I'm 36 and have been running Harry's for 8/9 years having come back from London where I was an accountant with British Airways.
Was your family in the hospitality business?
My mum's cafe has been operating from early 1970's but Harry, my father who was a garage man, came up with the restaurant idea in 1990. Most thought he was mad.
Do you remember your first paid job?
My first "job" was being dragged to gather my father's potatoes, but my first paid job was selling potatoes at the side of the road from age 11 where I kept the profits and built it up over 8 years into a lucrative side-line.
Where did you start off in hospitality? Did you have a mentor?
I had done plenty of cafe shifts when I was young, then at 15 Harry's opened and I worked summers and evenings on service. John Weeks, CEO Mintel International, my first London job, is still a huge influence on how I work.
Harry’s first appeared in the Bridgestone 100 Best Restaurants isn 2009.
I started in 2003 and we certainly didn't deserve to be in the Top 100 before 2009. Sally, who I had never even spoken to before, rang to break the news that we got into Top 100 and it still ranks among the best moments ever.
Who works with you in the business?
My brother Kevin is my partner and Head Chef Raymond Moran makes the kitchen tick and is one of the secrets to our success. I can't not give a nod to a great team who consistently do me proud!
How would you summarise a meal in Harry’s? What makes it unique?
The network of fresh and world class produce ("Made In Inishowen") that we source direct is key to Harry's. That gives us a head start on flavour & value. Good simple cooking is our philosophy after that.
How many staff do you have in Harry’s and what do you look when you’re hiring new front of house staff?
Last count there was 27, but we are recruiting. For FOH staff recruiting it's all in the first 10 seconds and depends on their smile & friendliness, not experience. Then it's down to hard work.
Same question, but applied to kitchen staff.
We'd be happy if young chefs came in with good knife skills and a work mentality. Sadly that's not the case, so training chefs from Kitchen Assistant has been more successful.
You’re surrounded by great food producers in Inishowen. Who would you count among your favourite Irish artisan food producers?
I honestly think Donegal has the best produce in Ireland, but is lagging behind in turning it into value added products. But it is theses raw products, fish, meat, vegetables and so on, that is key to us. Otherwise we love David Tiernan's Glebe Brethan, Jack McCarthys black pudding, and the Dungarvan Brewing Company.
What do you love about the restaurant business?
The thrill of having people come in and love the food is king. But I always need an extra challenge so, restoring our walled garden and the new relationships with rare-breed beef farmers, has me buzzing at the minute.
If you weren’t in the restaurant business, where do you think you might be
I'd still be in Inishowen for a start! I think there is potential with all our great produce to create products to package, sell and even export. I always liked the idea of making something.
For those not familiar with Inishfood, the food festival you organise each May, could you describe it?
Last year something special and spontaneous started as twitter chat and rolled into a weekend of skills sharing workshops and feasts. It's hard to describe but we captured something special and different.
What do you want Inisfood to be all about?
For people to come, be inspired, share passions and together push all the great things about Irish food. It's about positivity and fun but also about taking the skills back and using them.
What part of Inishfood are you most looking forward to?
Welcoming people to Inishowen first and foremost. The line-up is totally new, so I love the unknown elements and hopefully seeing creativity and inspirations emerge from the sessions.
If you were Taoiseach for a day?
There would be more support for start-ups where there are gaps, then the wages of politicians and senior civil servants would be significantly adjusted! For tourism and food, I'd create one entity that actually wants to invest and build a food island.
What would be your last meal?
We have records of a 6th century feast that took place at Grianán Áiligh right down to the Ingredients used. I'd recreate it on site for a massive outdoor feast of indulgence with the best views in Ireland!
If you were to go for a meal tonight anywhere in Ireland where would you choose? and why?
Has to be the Greenhouse at the minute. I've not been yet, but we have booked for June. I want to try Gary O'Hanlon's cooking in Viewmount House in Longford and when Derek Creagh gets back into a restaurant I will be first to book! But both Gary and Derek are cooking at the Inishfood homecoming feast with Stephen Gibson (Pichet), Kwanghi Chan (The Cliff House) and Sharon Harking (Pastry Chef, L'Ecrivian). Amazing to think they are all from Donegal. I'd travel Ireland for that meal.
Tell us something we won’t know about you
I was originally supposed to stay just 3-6months to help Harry's before heading back to South America where I had spent 6 months, but have well settled now in Inishowen and I'm getting married in August to Edel and can't wait.
Complete the sentence: my ideal day off would be.......
Getting outdoors which may include a couple of hours in the walled garden in the sunshine with the phone off and then a trip out on Kevin's small boat on Lough Swilly to catch a sunset & a pint in Ramelton.
Any words of advice to a person starting out in the restaurant business?
Work for someone else first and make sure you love the intensity. Then make sure someone who is good with numbers is watching over you. Finally, be different and stand out!
The best advice you have ever been given?
If you want to make money, don't open a restaurant.
Any plans for further expansion?
Huge ideas to diversify the bar into a separate food offering and literally working with architects and builders to see if it's feasible. We might refine the idea with the help of Inishfood visitors if they are up for some brainstorming!
Why do you think Harry’s has become so successful? What’s driven it?
We started our "local sourcing" drive in 2003, not because it was fashionable, but we had to be different and save money to survive. Each new link to a farmer, fisherman or forager has improved the buzz, taste and quality. We are actually seeing something special starting to emerge, but we are still only learning.
You have prospered in recent years, any advice to restaurateurs who are struggling at the moment.
Cut out the middleman. Make the food affordable and create the story. I'd also say you have to look at it very long term. We won't see the real benefits of some of our work for another year or more, but we are really excited about plans ahead.
Do you have a favourite quote or saying?
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference. (Robert Frost - but introduced to me by a mentor at DIT, Tom Cooney)
What's the future for Harry's?
We are looking to reintroduce more skills in-house. We might end up with a full time baker or 2, more butchery and fishmongering skills. Our walled garden is only starting to find its feet at a production level and has a great future. The combination of these skills under one roof is both frightening and thrilling. Basically it could be a home for a whole new "Made In Inishowen" offering. Or else we are bonkers for even dreaming of it!
