An iconic Northern destination is once again hitting the heights. William Barry heads own to the waters’s edge in Portaferry
“I want us to be known as a restaurant with rooms attached and not just a hotel restaurant”.
That’s the mission of Gary Bell, head chef at the Portaferry Hotel, County Down. Native to Wexford, Mr Bell trained in Bangor and New York, and was formerly head-chef at Thornton’s restaurant in Dublin. He is presently making waves at this eighteenth century waterside inn which sits prettily on Strangford Lough.
Bell respects the quality ingredients available on his doorstep which he uses in a sympathetic manner with a balanced menu including locally caught fish and shellfish, chicken from Marfield farm, and organic beef from the Glenarm estate. Kick off with creamy steamed Dundrum mussels with saffron butter with spring onion, or delicate poached hen egg, or seafood chowder which is brimming with fish, bacon and new potatoes.
Smart choices for mains include a simple 14oz Sirloin with several trimmings: this was steak at its unadulterated best. There is also Marlfield free range chicken breast, whilst fillet of organic salmon came with a very unusual but tasty fish skin poppadom.
A generous passionfruit crème brûlée wrapped up a great meal, the top was crisp with a wonderful snap as we fought to get our spoons in. The passionfruit filling was creamy, zingy and cleansing.
All this was presented by a competent and efficient team out front; we were never crowded nor were we bereft of attention. When service finished Mr. Bell himself visited the dining room for a few words at each table, a nice touch.
After an extensive refurbishment by its new owner Bill Wolsey, (it is now a sister of the celebrated Merchant hotel in Belfast) this restaurant is a country gem, a charming old world room and exceptionally handsome food worth driving for. Mission accomplished.
William Barry
The Portaferry Hotel 10, The Strand, Portaferry, Newtownards, County Down BT22 1PE T: 028 4272 8231 E: info@portaferryhotel.com W: www.portaferryhotel.com
Note: Gary Bell is also behind the Faoi Thalamh underground dining club (Google it)
