The River Room restaurant at the Galgorm Manor is the domain of Chef Chris Bell. He took charge last June and embarked on a journey to being recognised as one of Northern Ireland’s premier fine dining destinations. Bell’s resume reads like a directory of iconic restaurants: elBulli with Ferran Adrià, La Gavroce with Michel Roux Jr and most recently seven years as head chef at the famed Longridge Restaurant in the UK.
Already awarded two AA rosettes, Bell is reaching for a coveted Michelin star and this was demonstrated in a meal where everything was sensational. Beginning with a selection of breads which included bacon and caramelised onion bread which was so good I asked for more, followed by a substantial amuse bouche of warm spring vegetable soup with a whole walnut and Leggygowan goat’s cheese.
Starters of seared scallops with a haggis fritter and a chicken liver and foie gras parfait with a toasted brioche gave a hint of great things to come; slow cooked belly of pork with a cider fondant and sweet cubes of apple melted in my mouth but I was taken with the fillet of Angus beef which was served with a braised beef shin pie which was hot from the oven in its own petite blackened earthenware pot.
A raspberry pre-desert was followed by desert of a white chocolate mousse with oats and honey and an Irish cheese plate where diners can select their own from a cheese trolley offering no fewer that thirteen of Ireland’s finest cheeses. Special mention must be given to maître d Chloe who presents the cheese trolley and gives an expertly detailed account of each one.
Service was impeccable and delivered with theatrical aplomb. When staff have a passion for their job it shines through and lifts the entire experience.
Diners are ensconced in sumptuous semi private booths with the dining room overlooking the rushing River Maine, floor to ceiling windows give guests every chance to enjoy such refined cuisine in a worthy setting.
Bell was just sixteen when he first started working in the old Galgorm Hotel, over his career he has served time in Belfast’s most iconic restaurants namely Deane’s and Roscoff and now he has returned home and can stand among his former mentors as one of Northern Irelands leading chefs.
Galgorm Resort and Spa, Galgorm, Co. Antrim BT42 1EA N. Ireland Tel: +44 (0)2825881001
www.galgorm.com
