Vintage Cocktail Club

“I could stay here forever” announced my companion to no one in particular as she ordered a second signature cocktail and curled back into a big fireside armchair. We were relaxing in the dark oldsie-worldsie surroundings of the second floor of the Vintage Cocktail Club which I have frequented regularly since it opened in Dublin’s Temple Bar last October. It was a cold wet night outside and we were nicely sated after an excellent three course meal downstairs in this semi-hidden speakeasy bar which spreads over three floors of 1920's prohibition-inspired opulence. The VCC trades on its cocktails, but Chef Mark Bradley provides a short and tasty menu where, similar to the cocktails upstairs, the dishes are small but tasty and beautifully presented. Everything here is a treat for the eyes and the senses. The standout dishes included mouth melting seared scallops with chargrilled cauliflower purée and my pick of the “Smalls” was a fried egg which was perched on a disk of Jane Russell’s black pudding which in turn was perched on a fondant of potato: it was as delicious as it sounds. Main courses are referred to as “Boards” and for me the best of these were the crispy pork belly with barbeque beans and the Kettyle hanger steak with a toppling pile of shoestring fries. A winter fruit crumble and apple cinnamon fritters with pecan caramel brought this handsome meal to sweet conclusion. Two quibbles must be raised: service needs tightening up, and some extra hands would speed things up at busy times. Secondly some of the staff could do well to remember that a “cooler than thou” attitude to customers is dangerous for the industry as a whole at a time when it’s very easy – and affordable – to stay at home. Everyone should try the VCC at least once so they too can experience its uniqueness. It won’t push everyone’s buttons but it’s a new concept to Dublin and the team at VCC should be applauded for it. Vintage Cocktail Club 15 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, (01) 6753547 http://www.vintagecocktailclub.com Note: Booking is advisable and the club entrance is a non-descript black door to the left of the Pieman cafe.