Sunday, June 22nd, sees the Taste of the Loop at The Bandstand on Kilkee Beach, when the dynamic Loop Head Food Circle invites visitors to celebrate the refurbishment of Kilkee bandstand.
Loop Head is one hell of a place to enjoy a holiday, with great places to stay and great cooking. Here is an excerpt from Where To Eat and Stay on the Wild Atlantic Way, describing the various places on the Loop:
The myth that locals will tell you when you are on the Loop Head is that there is a hidden city – Cill Stuifín – which was submerged in an earthquake some time ago, round about the fifth century.
Only Loop Head could claim to have a hidden, submerged city as part of the Wild Atlantic Way. They’d never think of that down in Dingle, or in West Cork.
Hidden, it may be. Submerged, it may be. But, in the style in which you come to expect things in south County Clare, it seems that Cill Stuifín can be glimpsed, every seven years.
Except, you don’t want to gaze at it, because doing so will bring you bad luck.
Only Loop Head could claim to offer you the most spectacular, incredible vision known to man, but then tell you not to bother looking at it.
This sort of phantasmagorical craic, this audaciousness, is one of the reasons so many of us love Loop Head. It’s different. It’s mythic, and they make their own myths.
Diamond Rocks
The views from the Diamond Rocks Café out over Kilkee Bay are simply stunning. Whilst it’s a lovely stop-off as you walk the coastal path, it’s also a fine destination in its own right. And do check out the Richard Harris statue! West End, Kilkee, County Clare + 353 86 3721063 www.diamondrockscafe.com. Open day time.
McNamara’s
There is a small bakery corner in this Early till Late convenience store, that is devoted to the baking of Deirdre Daly. Deirdre is a specialist and talented patissier, so grab these treats for your picnic. She also manages the food in the Kilkee Golf club during high season. 11 O’Connell Street, Kilkee, County Clare + 353 65 905 6075. Open daily.
Murphy Blacks
Cillian and Mary are two of the major players in the Loop Head food community, and Mary’s cooking showcases the great fish and pristine ingredients of the region with stunning success – mussels steamed with cider and shallots; Loop Head crab tart; Atlantic cod with curried leeks and saffron cream; cannelloni of plaice; seafood zarzuela. There are smart, modern carnivorous choices – shank of lamb in 8 Degrees red ale; Kelly’s Kilrush sirloin – and Cillian looks after everyone with great charm. A charming restaurant. The Square, Kilkee, County Clare + 353 65 905 6854. Open dinner.
Naughton’s Bar
Elaine and Robert offer some fine, tasty cooking in Naughton’s, with a focus on fish and shellfish, abetted by a selection of meat dishes. They wisely keep things simple, and focus on getting excellent ingredients and showing them proper culinary respect. 45 O’Curry Street, Kilkee, County Clare + 353 65 905 6597 www.naughtonsbar.com. Open dinner.
The Pantry Shop & Bakery
Imelda’s café and bakery can seem to be the very epicentre of Kilkee on a busy summer day, with everyone calling in to eat breakfast, buy breads and cakes, sit around over a lazy lunch or read the paper over a cup of coffee. We suspect many Kilkee holidaymakers are in and out of The Pantry several times a day, starting with a berry dazzler and a wee Irish in the morning, then coronation chicken salad for lunch, and a cup of tea and a slice of carrot cake as evening draws in. O’Curry Street, Kilkee , County Clare + 353 65 905 6576 www.thepantrykilkee.com
Stella Maris
Stella Maris is a treasurable old resort hotel, and Anne Haugh and her family do a brilliant job of looking after their guests. The rooms are cosy, the cooking is very, very good, and the sense that this is an hotel for the community is precious. It’s also a completely unpretentious place, where everyone does their job as well as they can. O’Connell Street, Kilkee, County Clare
+ 353 65 9056455 www.stellamarishotel.com
The Strand
Caroline Byrne really enjoyed Johnny and Caroline Redmond’s cooking and hospitality in The Strand. “Lovely food, and a stunning view of the bay”, says Caroline. That lovely food is honest and true – Carrigaholt crab claws; Parmesan chicken; Donegal silver salmon; chocolate cola cake. Six nice rooms upstairs are advising you that it’s okay to have another digestif. Che Guevara stayed here back in 1961, don’t you know. True. Kilkee, County Clare + 353 65 9056177 www.thestrandkilkee.com. Restaurant open dinner.
The Long Dock
Think of the highest standards you can discover in Irish food, then take a drive way down the Loop Head to Carrigaholt, park on the big wide street and marvel as Tony Lynch shows how he can match those standards, dish by dish. The brown bread is superlative; the chowder is a classic; the fried fish is stunning; the fish pie is sheer class. The fact that you are enjoying this cooking in a great pub that is traditional yet utterly of-the-moment, with good music, a roaring fire, and great service, means the Long Dock is truly a standard setter in south west Clare. Imelda Lynch marshals the room with ease, and the Long Dock is a classic. Carrigaholt, County Clare +353 65 9058106 www.thelongdock.com. Open lunch and dinner.
Loop Head Lighthouse
The lighthouse at the tip of Loop Head offers spectacular holiday accommodation, and can be rented from the Irish Landmark Trust. Loop Head, County Clare
+ 353 1 6704733 www.irishlandmark.com.
Purecamping
Purecamping is an eco-campsite which offers both pre-erected bell tents, or a wild camping experience for those who want a more remote experience. Yoga classes available on site. Querrin, County Clare + 353 65 9057953 www.purecamping.ie
