Elaine Murphy is an anthropologist of childhood. Specifically, she explores the foods and tastes of our childhood.
She’s also one of Ireland’s most significant restaurateurs, of course.
In the food she offers in The Legal Eagle, Ms Murphy digs into the discoveries of childhood, unearthing, analysing, and then creating dishes that leap with the excitement of first discovery, first taste.
Her menus are novellas of being young, with all its foodie thrills - crisps in a bag with salty bits; that taste of the rabbit that your uncle shot and brought home; the pickled egg on the picnic; that naughty crisp sambo you and your friends made together in the garden; jelly and baked Alaska for pud.
She’s the Disney princess of Irish food, granting our wishes in the fairyland that is The Legal Eagle, a formerly defeated pub right across from the entrance to the Law Library, a stone’s throw from the River Liffey.
Ms Murphy’s dreamland for grown ups is, of course, the brilliant The Winding Stair, just up the river from the Legal Eagle, on Ormond Quay. But the Legal Eagle is dreamland for our inner child, and Ms Murphy and her team have mapped our our childhood memories as if they had brought on Bruno Bettelheim as a consultant.
Bacon and cabbage and parsley sauce on a flatbread; sticky chicken with watermelon; rock shandy; pork scratching; pickled eggs. And too much butter, always too much butter.
Childhood is where we make memories and store memories and, like the best memories, the Legal Eagle bestows you with transcendent memories: memories you can eat. It’s a work of genius.
The Legal Eagle takes domestic Irish dishes to new culinary heights, and showcases the brilliance of restaurateur Elaine Murphy.
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