Surgical precision. That's what Brian Heaton brings to the breakfast table at Castlewood, the elegant lodgings he runs with his wife, Helen, at The Wood, in Dingle, County Kerry.
Just look at that breakfast bap. Sounds simple, but look carefully at the thin folded slices of bacon under the thin slices of tomato under the perfectly poached eggs under the perfectly executed hollandaise sauce.
Surgical. Precise. Astounding, actually.
We are used to chefs with tweezers decorating plates with origami-like deftness. But we are not used to breakfast chefs demonstrating stellar brilliance and precision on the first plate of the day. Breakfast is not meant to be a performance. It’s about eggs, and starchy toast and cereal and tea and juice.
Not for Brian Heaton, not in Castlewood. Breakfast here is a performance
But being precise to the point of obsession is not all that Mr Heaton does. He has also a been rewriting the Book of Breakfast over the last decade, so there is goat's cheese and black pudding frittata, there is eggs benedict supreme with Ted Browne’s smoked salmon, there is Bagel Surprise, with warm toasted bagel layered with cream cheese and smoked salmon and served with a caper salsa.
And everything is perfect. As perfect as the housekeeping in Castlewood, which has the most perfect housekeeping we know.
World class. Gold medal. Champion standard. And, most recently, winner of the Irish Independent travel award for best breakfast in Ireland. Castlewood, with Helen and Brian at the helm, has the lot.
Brian and Helen bring surgical precision to the legendary breakfast in Castlewood House, Dingle says John McKenna
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