My Ma says that her grandfather would have had no truck with small spuds.
In his day, small, fecky little potatoes were fed to the pigs and only those of a decent size reserved for table. Thank goodness no such thinking applied when I visited Moloughney's of Clontarf, where a bowl of bijou, bejacketed potatoes accompanied my fish special. Far from being mere adjunct, these newly dug babies - a floury sort - were scene stealers, worthy of being eaten, in true Irish style, as a meal unto themselves (though, having said that, they had no problem sharing the stage with some crispy-skinned hake and a deeply buttery, chivey sauce).
Wonderful though the spuds were, however, they had to jockey for top spot on the evening's podium with, of all things, a plate of beans on toast. With shavings of Desmond cheese and a garnish of pea shoots, a starter of minted and lemony broad beans on breton toast had been punchy and perfect. In common with everything else we ate - be that Irish crab served with strips of cucumber and a ginger, lime and lemongrass dressing, or lean, milk-fed Irish lamb, with a basil sauce and cake of fried rosemary potatoes - the dish bespoke of freshness and thoughtful use of impeccably sourced ingredients (look elsewhere on the menu and you'll find Gold River pork, Jack McCarthy's black pudding, a slew of Irish cheeses, as well as home-smoked salmon).
The desserts in Liam and Michelle Moloughney's northside restaurant were no less impressive: a creamy carrageen panna cotta served with rhubarb compote fused the bounty of native land and shore, while their classic lemon tart was just as satisfyingly lemony as you'd like it to be. From the homemade breads to the decent wines by the glass, there was not an also-ran in sight, while the main dining room, with its exposed brickwork, high ceilings, and generous wooden tables, had bags of atmosphere, even on a slow-ish Tuesday night. Throw in some pleasant service and a midweek price tag of two courses for €20 or three for €25, and first past the post was Moloughney's, where small spuds mean big things.
Moloughney’s, 9 Vernon Avenue, Clontarf D3 Tel (01) 833 0002
