Tradition alive and well in Blair's Inn writes Joe McNamee

They don’t appear to have received the message in Blair’s Inn — you know, the one about these being the dying days, the swansong of the Traditional Irish Pub, especially rural pubs, most vulnerable of all to the contagion.

Blair’s Inn is a rural pub, in Cloghroe, Blarney, north-west of Cork city, right beside the Owenagearra River. In summertime, the riverbank patio garden is a riot of colour and life, flowers, frocks and a most superior take on barbecued food.

Stepping through the front door, just as dusk is drawing in on a crisp, clear spring day, down into the softly lit, low-ceilinged bar, into the warm caress of heat from the real fire, a friendly greeting, four or five locals sinking tea-time pints of stout, well … it’s the kind of ambience advertising creatives trade souls with the devil to recreate, but there’s simply no subsitute for the real thing.

Sadly, the real thing often isn’t enough in these trying times, you need something more. Blair’s have been taking the ‘something-more’ route for a number of years, building up a rep as the perfect out-of-town spot to ferry the family for Sunday lunch. That reputation snowballed and it now serves food, day and night, seven days a week.

It may only be midweek but by 9pm there is a tidy crowd, enough to bring tears to the eyes of many an abandoned suburban publican. The Blair’s Inn secret appears to lie in an ability to breathe new life into old tradition, always tinkering, always trying something new.

Their commitment to craft beer is genuine – what a joy to slug back two or three pints of delicious black stuff produced by an Irish company – in this case Dungarvan Brewing Co’s Black Rock draught stout. And while plenty of pubs offer grub, far fewer have a wine list of the BI calibre to match.

Food is still of the hale and hearty persuasion, leaving revolution to the radicals. Honey roast duck with potato & herb stuffing, served with a Grand Marnier & orange sauce, is pretty old school but the good quality duck itself is cooked well. Likewise, a rare Angus steak, good meat, cooked as ordered. The side dishes have been spending a little too much time hanging out with the carvery crowd, token offerings deserving of more attention, and maybe it is time to breathe a little new life into the menu overall. Times, as is their wont, are forever changing and this menu has been around for a while. But like all the best living traditions, Blair’s Inn don’t appear to fear change.


Blairs Inn,
Cloghroe, Blarney, Co Cork
On the R579, short distance from Blarney
Tel +353 21 4381 470
http://www.blairsinn.ie
Daily opening hours:
Lunch: 12.30pm-3.45pm
Evening bar menu: 4.00pm-9.00pm
Dinner menu in the restaurant: 6.00pm-9.00pm
All major credit & debit cards incl. American Express