Aidan and Joan McManus are gatekeepers of Ireland’s food industry, a team who have run their landmark restaurant, The King Sitric, with a distinctive creativity ever since they opened their doors more than forty years ago.Consider that: forty years. Four decades. Through booms and busts, storms – both literal and metaphorical – and numerous changes in the fashions of food. But they have succeeded for so long because they have no truck with fashion: Mr McManus cooks in the classical style, sources classic wines to serve with his dishes and, in doing so, makes everyone happy. Long before Howth was ever considered a culinary destination, The King Sitric put the town on the map as a destination for serious eating.Over the years Aidan and Joan have added rooms for guests, and opened the informal East Café Bar. But their great contribution to Irish food has always lain with their imaginatively masterful, classic fish cookery. If it swims, then they know exactly what to do with it.