If the Mamó menu featured only 3 dishes – Cod Chip; razor clams Portugese; and Howth honey tart – then Killian and Jess would still fill the room on Howth’s seafront for every sitting. To have one killer signature dish is fortunate. For a restaurant to open with three killer signature dishes makes you bomb-proof, and also means that getting a table is pretty darn difficult. In truth, Jess and Killian had the measure of the room right from the off: the menu selection, the wine and drinks selection, and the svelte charm of Jess’s service were all pretty irresistible, and everyone wants to get back to Howth to enjoy Comeragh lamb with pied de mouton, and Rick Higgins Cote de boeuf and brill with brown shrimp and – well, yes – the Howth honey tart. We’ll have the other dessert next time. Promise.