Wild and Native

Feargal Dempsey simply puts on the menu and the plate exactly the sort of grub you want to eat after a wind-washed walk along Rosslare Strand: crab and prawn velouté; crab claws with garlic butter; brill with beurre blanc; turbot with a mussel emulsion; monkfish with capers and black olives; chocolate brownie. Like the best seafood restaurants, Wild & Native answers the archetypal hungers in our imaginations, which means this is the food you want to eat, in the room you want to be in, in this resort town at the height of the summer. We would be very remiss if we did not warn you that your chances of getting a table as a walk-in are practically zero, so make sure to have a  reservation. Jodie Dempsey runs the ship with calm assurance.