Tiller + Grain

If you need proof of just what a sure-shot chef Clair Dowling is, then ask the team in Tiller & Grain to help you to a portion of their fish salad, one of the dishes that arrives in a 12 noon procession of dishes into the café each day. Made with coley (coley!) then revved-up with grapefruit and miso, it’s a wizard dish that comes off as marine pulled-pork, with the citrus delivering a true South Pacific character: some enchanted afternoon, in Dublin 2. Ms Dowling’s cooking has been compared to Ottolenghi, but there is a greater purity to her work and, amidst the complexity of bullet-point flavourings, such as yuzu, sumac and citrus, the dishes eat clean and fresh. Everything tastes great, and also looks simply gorgeous, so eat with your eyes first, then tuck in.