It’s a sign of his prodigious talent as a chef that Sunil Ghai can keep changing the food game at his will. In Ananda, he rewrote the book on people’s expectations of Indian food. When he opened Pickle, he changed the game again, serving top-class food in a roadhouse style setting. And, with a new decade, he has introduced an autobiographical background to his exploration of Northern Indian cuisine, so the lunchtime tiffin boxes careen between Kashmir, Punjab, Jaipur and Gwalior, whilst the evening menus offer riches such as Rajasthani wild boar, or lamb with bone marrow, or the incredible dal bukhara of 24-hour cooked black lentils. Benny Jacob looks after everyone and, for many food lovers, Pickle offers the finest Indian cooking in the country.