Aishling Moore is one of the defining chefs of her generation. And Ms Moore offers something more in Goldie, because she is also one of the the great culinary improvisers.
Using the catch of day boats, she has no clue what she is going to cook until the delivery arrives. When it does, she applies a scorching ability to synthesise ideas, a skill she uses even if all she is doing is making a sandwich. Fish cookery in Ireland is hidebound by convention, but Goldie is not hidebound, because Aishling doesn’t play by the rules: she puts gherkin ketchup with roasted beets. Her brandade is so agrestic that it's a complete re-invention of the salt fish classic. People, she serves a dish of crunchy fish spines with her own togarashi as one of the Goldie snacks. Give her a culinary inch, and Ms Moore will push the envelope a culinary mile. The result is some of the best, most intriguing and dynamic modern Irish food. And, despite her out-there style, Cork loves Aishling Moore’s food.