No. 35’s signature dish of home-made sausages, served with champ and onion jus, has been described as a “death row meal”, an amazing accolade for something that appears, initially, to be so simple. But behind the simplicity you will find the precise culinary technique of chef Tony Schwarz, a guy who sketches out all his dishes, like a movie director, before he creates and plates them. Owner Dermot Brennan rears pedigree saddleback pigs on his own Casey’s Farm, a mile outside the town. Superb ingredients and assured technique has seen No 35 ascend to top status in Kenmare, offering dishes of vivid fluency – wild mushroom lasagna with goat’s curd; 12-hour beef with celeriac and Guinness sauce; carrot cake with hazelnut marmalade. Service is smart and friendly, the dining rooms are lovely, and the wines are class.