Leslie Williams says get there early for Ola's P&Co pierogis
P&Co Pierogi is a shining example of what did not know we had been missing before the boom. Ola Farrar, and her husband, Jonathan, have been selling half-moon shaped Pierogi dumplings at Marlay Park Market, on Saturdays, for a number of months now, and are also at the monthly Terenure Market (First and Third Sunday of the month).
These deceptively simple water and flour dumplings can be filled with everything from Sauerkraut, Mushrooms and Caramelised Onions or Curd Cheese and Potato (the most traditional kind) to Black Pudding and Apple or Pulled Beef in Gravy (with a horseradish dip).
The P&Co pierogi may appear simple, but the definition and execution of each pierogi is dauntingly exact: Ms Farrar is a superb cook, so not only is the flavour of each filling precise and deft, but the handsome and uniform appearance of each little parcel is a joy to behold – the dumpling as art.
In the Polish kitchen pierogi are usually just boiled and served fresh but, as Ola pre-cooks them before she brings them to market, they need to be fried in a little butter or warmed on a griddle before serving with one of her customised dips. The frying also has the added benefit of providing a hint of crispness to the texture which contrasts nicely with the doughy parts and the soft centre.
The only problem with P&Co's stall is that Ola seems to sell out inordinately fast – particularly of her seasonal pierogi. My favourite at the moment is one of her core pierogi range - Minced Pork and Leek (served with a soy sauce dip but also good just dipped in sour cream) but I was too late last weekend to try the Pumpkin Chorizo and Spinach Pesto Halloween Special, damn! Even reading that combination makes me hungry.
I am looking forward to her Christmas special which is likely to be a Pulled Turkey and Ham Hock with Cranberry and Garlic Mayo and possibly a sweet Mince Pie version which is still in the experimental stage.
There are hopes for a shop if rents ever decrease and possibly supplying delicatessens in the future but, for now, you will just have to get to Marlay (early) or Terenure Market on Nov 16th or Dec. 6th (Christmas Market).
And a final tip: Pierogi seem to match particularly well with craft ales and stouts.
Leslie Williams
